I can’t recall the first time I ever set foot on a surfboard and strapped the nylon strap around my ankle and headed into the vast expanse of water. Looking at the photos in my living room I’d say I was around six years old, dressed in a bright yellow wetsuit with hair that reached past my shoulder. Just like everything I’m sure the first time on a surfboard was nothing extraordinary. I probably fell off countless times and got swept away by a rip current. After all that I most likely decided I was exhausted and complained my hands and feet were freezing. However after all the tribulations and turmoil I encountered, my father told me something significant about my early surfing days. “While you did fall and constantly get knocked against the waves you didn’t whine or pout. You’d just keep getting back up and continue moving along with a smile on your face.” From the first day I was on a surfboard I was confronted with emotions and underlying struggles that shaped me into who I am today. As a surfer we’re mostly stereotyped in a negative manner as being dropouts, lazy, and unmotivated. However, in my experience of being out in the ocean with those guys I can conclude that many people surf …show more content…
It could be those early morning sessions seeing a beautiful sunset, a dry wetsuit, or not tracking in sand into your car after a long day. I live for new experiences and adventures, I seek out creating lasting memories and experiences over material gain any day. Surfing continues to teach me to appreciate Mother Nature and I’m constantly excited each and everyday I go out and see the water break over creating the waves I’ve enjoyed my whole life. There’s no price tag on the ocean and ultimately that has taught me that as cliche as it sounds “the best things in life are free”. The sport has molded me into who I am today as the lessons I’ve taken from surfing apply directly into my everyday