Edith Head is arguably one of the most prolific and controversial costume designers that has ever lived. Her work has been the envy and inspiration of many, granting her 18th Oscar nominations and eight wins. One of her most important designs, however, are those of Kim Novak’s in Hitchcock’s classic Vertigo. Novak’s costumes are known as some of the most important designs in film history. Not only are they important because of their aesthetic complexity, but because they depict Novak’s character’s dual personality: one sophisticated and urbane, and the other earthy and more vibrant. Novak’s first character, Madeleine Elster, is presented as a fatal woman who is both dangerous and desirable. Therefore, her wardrobe should not be seductive. In contrast, it should show little skin, hidden behind high collars and long sleeves. Thus, Head’s designed a demure gray suit that is first seen when Madeleine enters the flower shop. This costume, comprised of a pencil skirt and single-breasted jacket, depicts Madeleine as a wealthy shipping heiress. Her clothes were the sheen of luxury and moneyed elegance. But to further articulate what Madeleine’s costumes meant in relation to the story, it is essential to …show more content…
Scottie can never discover what Madeleine is like outside the drawing-room, not because she has died, but because Madeleine does not exist. The costumes enhance this unavailability by being fit and flatter enough, to conceal Madeleine’s flesh beneath neat buttons and sharp tailoring. Think of the time when Scottie attempts to recreate Judy as Madeleine, he is particularly fixated on Madeleine’s suit, possibly her most confining and conservative of outfits. As a result, Scottie cannot consummate his relationship with Judy unless she is dressed in the grey suit; his desire for Madeleine seems built upon her unavailability to be obtain. In short, Scottie desires what he cannot