Early twentieth century
The sensational debut of the Ballet Russes in Paris in 1909 was applauded for its exotic magnificence and certainly added to the trend. By the time of the Russo-Japanese War (1904-1905), Orientalism, and Japonism impact in exoticism and the literature. Poiret and Callot Soeurs were drawn to the patterns and color of fabric as loosely fitted harem pants and the exotic Japanese Kimono.
In 1911, Poiret held a fancy dress ball for party that has inspired by the Orient. The designs were developed from ethnic costume of various eastern such as India and China. The party was success that Poiret known as a forerunner in dramatic and exotic fashion designer. Man’s party costume used gold lame and purple silk satin jacket with
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Poiret and Paquin use fan as advertisements for their maisons. Paquin hired three talented illustrators (Paul Iribe, Georges Barbier and Georges Lepape) to create artistic fan such as L’occidentale fan in 1911. The fan’s materials are vellum, pochoir of woman holding flower in scene with ocean and mountain, illustrated by Paul Iribe.
From 1910 to 1913, many haute couture designers made coats of nukiemon style of Japanase kimono in a generous swing back style and a design that exposed neck. Jeanne Pequin created Evening Coat with blue silk charmeuse satin and black silk chiffon, collar of silk chiffon, and embroidery of Japanese that like flowers or waves. Jeanne Paquin’s garment achieved both beauty and comfort.
Western designer created dresses that inspiration form Japanese kimono style. The dress had typical things crate the front neck opening in uchiawase style and the straight cut kimono sleeves. Chinese also influence the design of embroidery and the style of the back of the dress. The evening dress by Callot Soeurs in 1908 is an interesting clothing in which a pulled back collar, a kimono overlap and loose drapes for the lower part of the back resembling the appearance of a kimono are effectively expressed by Western-style three dimensional
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The silhouette of nukiemon, the dropped collar at back in kabuki dress has bold strioe pattern and date-eri style. The coat had floral motifs similar to the patterns favored by kabuki actors.
Kimono style indoor was favored in the west after 19th century because it was comfortable. Mariano Fortuny got many inspiration including Japanese kimono patterns. His clothing used butterfly and hollyhock motifs that from Japanese fabric. The original fabric appeared for French journal Le Japan Artistique in 1888 and Etoffe Japonaises in 1910. Currently, it used in the collection of the Musee de la Mode et du Textile, Palais du Louvre.
In 1919, Gustave Beer constructed the evening dress with yotsukanawa and seigaitha , actually “blue ocean wave” in Japanese, serves wave in China and a scale in Western Europe. Its geometric design was worn in the Art Deco style that was dominant in 1920s. The evening wear used black net with silver bead and rhine stone embroidery of japanase traditional motifs, silver beads fringe, sash in green and gold stripes and silver lame underdress. Thus, it has straight