Gymnastic Disorders: Strength And Technique

Rock climbers perform complex gymnastic moves on overhanging or seemingly blank vertical rock faces in a rock climbing gym or outdoors on natural rock (Fleming & Hörst, 2010). “The two most important fundamental abilities of a rock climber are strength and technique”, and technique, with an emphasis on efficiency, is the “primary determinant of climbing performance” (Hague & Hunter, 2006, p. ix). The twist-lock move is not a natural one; is difficult to learn; requires a significant amount of strength through the core muscles of the torso, especially on steep surfaces; and requires considerable practice and coaching (Hörst, 2016).

Strength and power are no doubt required by climbers. However, the climber needs to understand it “through the master categories of balance and movement” (Hague & Hunter, 2006, p. 156).

“Turning creates a mechanical advantage by allowing their arms and legs to be more effective levers. Finally, turning allows for more effective application of the forces created by pushing with the legs” (Hague & Hunter, 2006, p. 67). Experienced climbers have automated their techniques. This gives them more time to “focus their conscious attention on higher-order issues, such as examining the sequence to come or considering how to initiate the next move (Hague & Hunter, 2006, p.

After a string of many discrete skills are linked together, the skill becomes more complex and is then called a serial skill (Hörst, 2016) (Schmidt & Lee, 2014). Like a gymnast performing a routine, a climber must successfully execute specific moves, but also acquire the skill to link all the moves into a complete ascent” (Hörst, 2016, p. 58). It is important to practice connecting the individual moves as a new skill (Hörst,