Uaq assignment 2 (1)
.docx
School
National Institute of Fashion Technology**We aren't endorsed by this school
Course
APPAREL PRODUCTION APPAREL PO
Subject
Mechanical Engineering
Date
Jan 12, 2025
Pages
5
Uploaded by MegaMoonRaccoon39
Understanding Apparel QualityAssignment-2 Ananya Vatsa Vaishnavi Chaudhari
Spreading Defects1.Pattern Parts Missing:○Cause: An oversight between the marker maker and the design team may result in the incorrect number of pattern parts being included in the marker layout.2.Mixed Parts:○Cause: Poor labelling or identification of pattern parts on the marker can lead to confusion during cutting, resulting in the incorrect joining of parts of different sizes.3.Incorrect Pattern Orientation on Napped Fabrics:○Cause: Lack of attention to detail or training in pattern alignment may lead to patterns not facing in the correct direction on napped fabrics, impacting garment appearance and quality.4.Patterns Not Aligned with Fabric Grain:○Cause: Insufficient training or awareness among production staff regarding the importance of aligning patterns with the fabric grain can result in misaligned patterns, affecting garment fit and drape.5.Poor Line Definitions:○Cause: Inadequate maintenance of equipment such as chalk markers or perforated lays may lead to poor line definition during marking, resulting in inaccurate cutting and wastage of fabric.6.Skimpy Marking:○Cause: Pressure to optimise fabric usage or worn-out pattern edges may lead to skimpy marking practices, where patterns are squeezed into smaller spaces on the fabric, compromising the accuracy of cutting.7.Generous Marking:○Cause: A combination of factors such as inadequate training, improper marker placement, or worn pattern edges can result in generous marking, leading to fabric wastage and sewing issues like puckering or pleating.8.Marker Too Wide:○Cause: Inaccurate marker placement or insufficient attention to marker width settings may result in parts being cut with bits missing at the edge of the lay, affecting garment integrity and quality.9.Mismatched Checks and Stripes:○Cause: Lack of precision in pattern placement or insufficient attention to pattern alignment may result in mismatched checks or stripes, detracting from the overall aesthetic appeal of the garment.10. Omitted Notches and Drill Marks:○Cause: Oversight or negligence during pattern marking may lead to the omission, indistinctness, or misplacement of notches and drill marks, affecting assembly accuracy and garment construction quality.A collective solution to all the defects in the spreading department would be looking at certain parameters during quality checking like:➢Place the patterns correctly ➢Evening out after spreading each ply ➢There’s a correct cut order plan ➢Not mixing dye or shade lots, having a separation between each one of them ➢Giving proper relaxation time for the fabric to shrink.
Cutting DefectsCutting defects can have a significant impact on the overall production process, leading to increased costs, wasted materials 1.Miss cut: Mistakenly the cuter man followed the pattern, as most of the cutting process is manual in the garments industry. Missing the cutting line is a missed cut in the garments industry.2.Running shade:Shade variation in the roll lengthwise, some distances have one shade and another.3.Matching plies:Each ply of Fabric under one layer has to match with each other.4.Numbering & bundling: Improper numbering and bundling are critical defects in garment manufacturing.5.Bowing in Fabric:Bowing fabric in the cutting room can be a common issue in the garment industry. “Bowing” refers to the fabric becoming distorted or skewed, which can lead to inaccuracies in cutting patterns. To solve this problem the fabric should be spread in equal tension throughout 6.Missing or incorrect Notch mark:Notch marks play a crucial role in the cutting process, especially in garment and pattern-making. Notches are small, triangular, or V-shaped marks placed along the edges of pattern pieces.7.Rugged cut:This is the opposite word of even cutting so the edges are rugged.8.Fabric way:According to fabric construction, woven and knitfabrics have a weaving or knitting yarn placement. Cutting rooms have to follow the buyer-approved sampleto maintain the right fabric way.9.Measurement: The cut panels have to match the CAD pattern spec. The cutting process has to be precise and even more or less than 1 mm deviation is a defect.10.Tension Loose:Incorrect ply tension can lead to various sizes and parts missing bits in the parts of the garment.11.Alignment: Uneven or inaccurate notches and slits can lead to problems during sewing, such as misalignment of seams and patterns.12.Skew:When fabric layers shift during the cutting process, it can cause pieces to be cut at an angle, resulting in irregular seams and fit issues.Sewing DefectsDefect Definition CausesSolutionsImagesSeam PuckeringSeam puckering refers to the gathering of a seam either just after sewing or after laundering causing an unacceptable seam appearance-Uneven stretching onto plies of fabric during sewing.-Improper thread tension-Feed dog, eyelets and thread guides should be checked periodically for damages.-The machine feed mechanism must be of better quality.-Tension, SPI and presser foot pressure should not be fiddled with. Open seam or A portion of the -Improper handling of the -Clear markings for stitch lines.
broken seamgarment that has not been covered by sewing threadparts of garments.-Improper setting and timing between needle and looper or hook etc.-Proper setting and timing between needle and looper or hook.-Tension should be quantifiable. Broken Stitch Non-continuous sewing threadIt appears due to improper trimming or machine usage. -Needle plate, presser foot and feed dog should be checked periodically for damages.-Tension and threading should not be fiddled with much.-Proper trimming.Drop stitch/Skipped stitchIrregular stitching along the seam It appears due to improper handling of cut pieces or machine usage.-Placing the needle properly.-Needle size & thread size must be adjusted.-The pressure of the foot must be adjusted accurately. Uncut/ loose threadExtra threads or loose threads on the seam lineIt appears due to improper trimming or finishing.-UBT/thread trimmer should be used-Operator training.-Garment finishing should be checked properly. Seam slippageThe tendency for a seam to open due to the application of a force perpendicular to the seam directionThis happens when the yarns in the fabric are pulled out of the seam and is more frequent in fabrics made from continuous filament yarns -French seam type can be tried.-Seam width can be increased.Needle hole Due to the missing needle.Insufficient cleaning.Breakage of yarn at a knot.Extremely tight yarn twist.-Thoroughly cleaning the machine.-An air gun is used to eliminate dust.-Check with a broken needleRopy hem It does not lay flat and appears crooked.Typically brought on by careless operator handling.Tell the sewer to make sure the hem is properly started in the fabric before they begin sewing by a folder.Watch out for excessive holding back when the seam is being sewn.Apply the lightest possible roller or presser foot pressure.Finishing Defects Poor pressing in the shoulder seam: Bubbling can be seen around the shoulder after it has been pressed
Cause: Due to differential shrinkage or the seam was made with too much shrinkage Solution: Maintain firm tension until the cloth has been set in place by the vacuum.DEFECTDEFINITION CAUSES SOLUTIONS