Surfing
Is a surfing town, it seems like everyone does it. I cant tell you the number of surfers that I have seen in the last few days. Something that struck me was just how fit the serious surfers where. They were perfectly toned, muscular and all rather flexible. I know realize that surfing is an intense workout. Anyone who watches a movie with a surfer and thinks its just balancing on a board is terribly misled. Surfing is intense cardio, it requires the balance and agility of a yoga master, the reflexes of a ninja, the endurance of ultra marathon runner. In short surfers are demi gods. I decided that for my 27th birthday I wanted to try something new that I couldn 't really do at home. I just so happen to be in a surfing town so it made
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After watching him do it a few times he had me get on a board and practice. I was a mess. I couldn 't get into the right position, I wasn 't putting the weight on the right foot, I didn 't stand fast enough. Carlos kept saying "its easy, its easy, its easy." I wanted to through a pie at him and say in a stern voice that it wasn 't easy for me. Carlos has been surfing since he was 4 years old, so it is all second nature for him. I feel like I just became proficient at walking in somewhat of a straight line last …show more content…
After a few waves I started understanding why stance is so important while surfing. While I was still falling a lot I was beginning to be able to stand up more and more. I began being able to ride waves more and more until finally the stars aligned, the heavens were kind, the sea was gentile with me and I rode a wave all the way. It was amazing. In looking at the video my dad took it looks awkward and unimpressive but it felt epic! I had defied the odds, over come great adversities, worked for it, earned that wave. I had tamed the sea! I was an unstoppable force. Until I ran out of ocean...and then the rocky shore