In this chapter, Alexandra Palmer analyzes the practice of vintage fashion in the 21th Century. She believes that vintage fashion has turned into a mass culture, regardless of its style and price. Moreover, it has become a new fashion alternative in today’s fashion world. Supported by Angela McRobbie’s research, Palmer finds that the purpose of vintage consumption is to seek nostalgic pleasures. The author also explores the idea of individuality and connoisseurship which related to vintage consumption.
To support her argument, Palmer explores the historical context of vintage consumption. She believes that the popularity of vintage shopping occurred during 1980s in North America. In this case, high-end brands introduced the concept of discount shopping. According to her “Vintage shopping can be viewed as a continuation of discount culture, while simultaneously achieving an individual identity and
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She illustrates her argument by taking the example of Norma Kamali’s collection, which influenced by her personal interest in vintage style. Palmer describes Kamali’s style as a sophisticated fusion of old fashion with the current fashion style, which reflected in her avant-garde collections. Furthermore, she elaborates how vintage consumption affects the high-end brand, such as Christian Dior. She believes that the older collections are being “… re-evaluated, re-valued and re-worn …” (Palmer 211). In this case, Christian Dior is buying back their old collection through auctions and dealers. These clothes are treated as an archive and stored in a museum, which established by the company. Palmer describes this act as a move “… to secure exclusivity and reinforces the historical position of the brand” (211). In this case, she assumes famous brands are being forced to control a symbiotic relationship between olds and new style in order to keep their