ipl-logo

When There Is Breaking The Fundamental Maths Of Surfing

305 Words2 Pages
The surfer must catch a wave just as it is breaking, which is when it has maximum velocity. To be able to catch the wave the surfers momentum and the waves momentum must be equal. The fundamental mathematics of surfing depends on Newton's equations when mass times acceleration equals the propulsive force created by paddling, and the “drag force” due to particle motion of the wave. The drag is the assistant force because of the circular movement of water partials in the wave. This gives the surfer extra speed. think of it as the current that helps whe. swimming downstream in a river. The ma=P+D equation explains that the surfer must paddle fast enough, equal to, or a little less than to the actual speed of the wave in order to catch the wave.
Open Document